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梅州松源麦芽糖制作技艺

2017-10-16 16:52  来源:梅州市非物质文化遗产?;ぶ行?/font>

  

让人流口水的现做麦芽糖

  松 源

  匠心为传承

  麦芽糖制作工艺

  麦芽糖,顾名思义就是以麦芽和大米(粘米或糯米),经过发芽、浸泡、蒸煮、榨汁、拽拉等多道工序精制而成。麦芽糖甜味不大且香而不腻,可增加菜肴的色泽和香味。据李时珍《本草纲目》载:“麦芽糖性甘温,健脾开胃,处方中为饴糖,有补气治病作用?!?麦芽糖与水溶解后会化成葡萄糖,具有养颜、补脾益气、润肺止咳、滋润内脏等功效。

  说起麦芽糖,就会勾起不少客家人的童年记忆。在梅县区松源镇横江村,几乎家家都懂得制作麦芽糖。横江村横二片的温维明,一家五代都会制作麦芽糖,据其介绍,松源麦芽糖的制作已有近六百年历史。很久以前祖上有亲人去福建上杭务工,偶然吃了麦芽糖后,便从福建的手工艺人那里学习制糖方法,回乡后为了养家糊口便制作麦芽糖游乡叫卖。

  温维明介绍,制作麦芽糖的工具有糖架、糖篓、糖钩等,每一道程序都要耐心对待,每一道程序环环相扣,一点都不能含糊。精选上好的麦子,这样子出芽率才会高。经过冷水浸泡一夜的麦子再用布盖住,静候其在适宜的温度萌发嫩黄色的麦芽。小麦发芽主要受天气温度影响,发芽期大概需四天到一周的时间,出芽期间要细心留意麦子出芽的情况。选取优质大米煮饭,煮熟的饭要有一定的硬度,大概比例是30斤大米搭配1斤麦芽,混合一起保持恒温发酵约7、8个小时。发酵的时候若温度太冷,就在锅上面平铺布块让其维持在最佳温度,从蒸饭到成品起码要十四个小时。

  只见温叔把发酵好的米饭用勺子慢慢捞起锅,装进糖篓后再用糖架压榨出汁液,汁液闻起来有股淡淡的清香,将汁液放进大锅后,大灶点柴生火、烧水,把握好火候让其先大火炖煮,慢慢再小火熬制成浓稠状。锅里的糖浆由米白色逐渐转为赤色,看起来有浓稠感时便会冒起龙眼般大小的泡。随着糖浆不断翻滚麦芽香越来越浓。温叔表示,当起类似猪肚般大小的泡时差不多就可以起锅了,经过一定火候慢制的糖浆才够老气,制作出来的麦芽糖才更筋道。

  在糖浆刚呈现浓稠状时,温叔的儿子在碗里打进几只鸡蛋,舀入滚热的赤糖轻轻搅拌,冲好了一大碗麦芽赤糖鸡蛋给大家尝,原以为吃起来会特别甜腻,但是麦芽的清香和鸡蛋中和在一起,口感细滑,入口绵柔,一点也不会腻人。原来在以前物资紧张的年代,一个小碗打个鸡蛋冲入一勺刚出锅的赤糖,便是招待亲朋好友不错的滋补品。

拉糖

  传统的手工拉糖,是最费劲也是大家最喜欢围观的一个环节,只见又浓又黏的糖汁冷却不烫手时,温叔把一团糖胶挂在糖钩上,来回不断地拽拉,黑褐色的赤糖颜色慢慢开始变淡,逐渐变成了奶白色,拉好的麦芽糖看起来很有韧性,将其剪成小小的圆扁形,麦芽糖就可以正式出炉了。

  温叔回忆,算起来这个手艺并不赚钱,工序繁琐且耗时长,制作麦芽糖后的料就会用来养猪。以前做麦芽糖会找准时机售卖,圩日去市场很快就卖光。平日里会先去瓦厂再去穿街走巷售卖,通常是2斤米便可换1斤糖。现在,女儿在微信圈里一发麦芽糖,就有朋友要求私人定制,售卖渠道更广了。

 ?。ㄎ?朱磊 图/日晖 蔡圳?。?/p>

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